GOTS now rules that washing detergents must be free of phosphates, disperse dyes classified as allergenic are prohibited and there is the inclusion of natural dyes that are obligated to meet the basic requirements of GOTS approved synthetic dyes. But the use of natural inputs from threatened plant species is banned. Ammonia is permitted as a buffer in pigment printing pastes.
An important inclusion in the new GOTS criteria is that metrics on energy and water use during textile production need to be available. This requirement includes data on energy and water consumption per kg of textile output as well as target goals. GOTS now also details procedures to reduce energy and water consumption per kg of textile output.
Specific requirements are also added for wastewater from wool scouring and bast retting sites and the permitted chemical oxygen demand (COD) per kg of textile output of treated water is reduced from 25 g/kg to 20 g/kg.
There is also now a clear distinction made between hazardous statements that refer to substances and those that refer to preparations in assessment. Substances and preparations are banned if assigned to listed risk phrases related to health hazards. Preparations are also banned if assigned to listed risk phrases related to environmental hazards.
From 1st January 2014 onwards, any paper or cardboard used in packaging material, hang tags, swing tags etc. must be post-consumer recycled or certified according to FSC or PEFC in order to meet GOTS criteria.
Social criteria
Important new changes to GOTS social criteria have been implemented whereby applicants must support the implementation and monitoring of the social criteria by certain defined measures that include nominating a person responsible for social accountability; monitoring compliance with the social criteria and implementing necessary improvements at its facilities along with other ways to clearly monitor performance.
GOTS certification obligations have also been revised and specified so that all traders that are buying and selling GOTS goods in the supply chain (regardless if they have an import/export activity) must participate in the certification system. The only exception is for traders with a turnover of less than €5000 and that sell direct to the consumer.
