MILAN - A survey of 18 leading European and American apparel brands suggests sustainability compliance is now having a major influence on purchasing practices. Leading apparel retailers including Armani Group, Mango, Marks & Spencer, Puma and Vivienne Westwood were asked about their procurement practices, the sustainability issues they are focusing on and the value they attach to various certification labels. All but one brand said they included specific sustainability compliance requirements in purchasing contracts, with the elimination of hazardous textile chemicals, traceability and ban of cruel practices towards animals being the most considered areas.