Intense debate
Debates on the value of certifications and auditing at the GOTS event were intense, with information on how non-conformity is covered and dealt with from an auditor’s perspective showing all the many issues uncovered, and with audits being described as a diagnostic tool for what is wrong (albeit objectors pointed out that certified products are sold as something else, consumers expecting them to be more of a guarantee of sustainability).
This led back to a discussion on the value of due diligence to go
beyond the limitations of standards in addressing and mitigating problems, and to bring apparel brands into taking more responsibility than simply checking they have the correct certificates.
Devhuti Bakshi, vice president, external relations & strategic partnerships at the Trident Group, and Indian textiles company spoke about how to go beyond certification for social compliance in the oganic sector. “We are now addressing not only environmental issues through certification, but also engaging in activities like ‘adopting’ schools and villages, and working to employ more women better by supporting improved health and safety, education, and addressing problems of sexual harassment, including through provision of a reporting helpline where problems can be reported and addressed.”
The event concluded with three strong messages for the IFOAM OWC, which takes place tomorrow. Broadly these were that social criteria in sustainability standards help improve workers’ situations, but social standards need to be improved with measurable criteria as a diagnostic tool. In addition, or if possible, this needs to happen in combination with sustainability standards apply escalation tools, for example, effective due diligence and finally the textile industry needs to urgently find and apply efficient ways to get big brands and retailers to use their (buying) power to truly scale-up sustainability in the overall textiles industry.
