With its second key finding, the WBA finds that companies are playing it safe in terms of the extent of work they’re doing to ensure the betterment of female workers. “Companies focus on avoiding risks, not driving change,” is the message.
To this end, the majority of data available relates to violence and harassment within the workplace. That said, information that’s presented only accounts for 38 per cent of what stakeholders would hope to see, the WBA says
“In terms of violence and harassment prevention, 27 companies assessed (75%) condemn violence and harassment in the workplace and require suppliers to do the same. However, only three of those publish information showing they offer their employees sexual harassment training (Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Limited and Ralph Lauren) or domestic violence training (Kering) beyond obligatory code of conduct training to further prevent violence and harassment in the workplace,” the report notes.
“No company publishes information to indicate that it monitors violence and harassment concerns (particularly of women employees) and their effective remediation, recognising that a safe working environment reduces absenteeism and increases productivity and staff retention,” it goes on to say.
Being compliant with legislative requirements, the minimum that a brand can do, appears to be the extent of their efforts in many cases. With regards to detailing data relating to pay by gender, only Inditex and Lojas Renner – as aforementioned – can be seen to publish documents on this, which only applies to certain geographies.
Globally, no company publishes data for its global workforce, either in terms of the overall pay gap, by pay band, occupational function or in terms of financial benefits, the report finds.
The WBA says: “Governments can help raise the bar on corporate gender efforts by requiring companies to report more on their gender impacts. However, companies cannot wait for – and should not rely on – regulation to determine the apparel industry’s transformation.”
The third and final finding highlights a need for greater strategising from fashion’s leading brands in order to address this data gap. “Stand-alone targets, such as gender diversity in leadership, are a good start for establishing a strategy to drive gender equality and women’s empowerment. However, these often miss key gender impacts in the workplace, supply chain, marketplace and community,” the report reads.
At present, the vast majority (69 per cent) of firms consider only three elements of their value chain, whilst just two (Fast Retailing and H&M) consider five: corporate, workplace, supply chain, marketplace and community. It’s the community element that most companies report on, with 14 of the 36 firms indicating that they have at least three programmes which work to support women and girls in communities around the world.
With such varied plans of action then from fashion’s largest companies, the report’s author insists that only with a holistic approach can the industry make collective change.
“One way for companies to ensure that they develop a strategic approach to gender that is both integrated and holistic is to engage relevant stakeholders on gender-related issues and incorporate their feedback into company policies and practices,” the WBA says.
It concludes: “The women affected by the apparel industry can be found in the workplace, supply chain, marketplace and community, and they are impacted across multiple dimensions. However, companies cannot know whether these women are fairly considered and truly empowered until they ask.”
