Camara admits some brands will be more likely than others to go out of their way – and pay more than they need to – so that garment workers can receive a living wage.
“There are some brands, who will remain nameless, who decide that they don’t need to do anything. But most of the big brands, particularly the EU brands, will act because of this new legislation,” she explained.
“Brands can – and should – do something. Before, it was, ‘Well, we know we should be doing something, but we can’t’. No, you can! We very much want to work with them to move that forward. It’s slow, but I think we’re moving everyone in the right direction.”
Vicky Bowman, director of Myanmar Centre for Responsible Business (MCRB), has always argued that the more responsible brands offer the best hope for the country’s garment workers. But she emphasises that they need to step up.
“Unquestionably the garment sector should be paying higher wages. The currency has devalued since the coup from 1300 kyats per dollar to less than 6,000,” she said.
If the garment sector disappears, how are these women going to survive?
“That means widespread inflation. It’s further exacerbated by policies on foreign exchange which result in shortages of fuel and add to transport costs. Workers are really struggling. Paying more is a far better solution than withdrawal. If the garment sector disappears, how are these women going to survive?
‘Indeed maintaining wages at the current low levels will kill the sector. Already skilled workers are voting with their feet. That’s totally understandable. Myanmar workers are being actively recruited from China and, to some extent, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia.
“But when they go, they don’t necessarily find better conditions. They are usually vulnerable because they have migrated illegally across the border, and to countries with where migrant workers have few rights.
“On paper, they may be getting a bit more money, but they are also subject to forced labour. We are seeing workers go into debt to get their job, and workers having their passports and wages withheld.”
It means there is a labour shortage in Myanmar, mostly around Yangon where the garment industry is centred. In normal economic circumstances, that might be expected to push up wages. But not in Myanmar.
“The other big issue right now is the conscription law that the military introduced in February. Officially, it covers men aged 18 to 35 and women aged 18 to 27. It’s not clear whether any women have been conscripted,” added Bowman.
“But they’re under pressure to earn more, so they migrate. As a result, there’s a higher risk of child labour, because factories are looking to get any replacements they can. And because of poverty, you’ve got more under 18s looking for work.
“In order to address all of these problems, garment factories should be paying higher basic wages, to make it worthwhile for women workers to stay in Myanmar.”
