Weak links put EU textile recycling at risk

Export restrictions

To limit waste exports, the EU’s Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, announced in 2022, proposes restricting exports of used clothing to non-OECD countries.

Such an unprecedented wave may cause a complete collapse of the European textile value

However, the European Apparel and Textile Confederation (Euratex) warned in a statement, “if wrongly implemented, such an unprecedented wave may cause a complete collapse of the European textile value chain under the burden of restrictions, requirements, costs and unlevel playing field.”

The industry now looks to policymakers for support in implementing the EU Waste Framework Directive revisions.

“Soex’s insolvency serves as a warning for the industry,” said Philippe Doliger, policy advisor for Textiles at the European Recycling Industries’ Confederation (EuRIC). “If we don’t address these challenges, we risk more businesses shutting down, leading to increased surplus stock and a rise in textile waste ending up in landfills.

“Looking ahead, it’s about making the textile reuse and recycling industry more competitive,” Doliger explained. “The EU has to boost demand for recycled textiles, expand recycling capacity, and promote the use of sustainable materials through the upcoming ecodesign requirements.

“Most importantly, it’s time to make it mandatory for new textile products to include a certain percentage of recycled textile content, ideally from post-consumer textiles.”

Our sector is at an imminent financial precipice now

The Textile Recycling Association is now urging the UK Government to prioritise textiles in the establishment of a Circular Economy Taskforce to address all major waste streams.

“It is vital that textiles is the first roadmap to be developed,” Wheeler said, noting that even with EPR and product standards, any economic effects on recycling and reuse actors could take five years. “Our sector is at an imminent financial precipice now.”

With escalating challenges and evolving policy initiatives, the health and well-being of the EU textile recycling sector hangs in the balance right now.

But there is hope; with effective collaboration between policymakers and key industry players, its future can be safeguarded, protecting both the integrity of the circular economy in Europe, along with the effectiveness of European regulations designed to achieve this goal.

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