Manufacturers mobilise to reshape fashion sustainability

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Textile industry veteran and former Cascale executive Andrew Martin reports on how suppliers are building new alliances in a push to remodel how fashion’s sustainability transition is defined, financed, and governed 

Yarn manufacturer
The idea that suppliers should simply absorb expectations is increasingly untenable.

YORK – For the best part of a decade, the industry’s sustainability agenda has flowed in one direction: brands and global MSIs set the tone, while manufacturers quietly did the heavy lifting on the factory floor. That arrangement is starting to fray. As demands on decarbonisation and wider environmental performance intensify, the idea that suppliers should simply absorb expectations written in someone else’s boardroom looks increasingly untenable.

In response, a different pattern is emerging. Manufacturer-driven initiatives such as the Sustainable Terms of Trade Initiative (STTI), the Apparel and Textile Transformation Initiative (ATTI) and the Fashion Producer Collective (FPC) are giving suppliers their own organising platforms and political muscle. Rather than waiting to be consulted, producers are insisting on a say in how “sustainability” is defined, financed and governed – a shift that is probably long overdue.

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