Chemical textile recycling’s reality check

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Chemical recycling promises fibre-to-fibre circularity – but feedstock contamination, blended fabrics and variations in textile chemistry mean the hardest problems remain unsolved 

Image of recycled textile with labelling
Pure single-fibre garments are the exception, not the rule.

YORK – Mechanical recycling has a ceiling. Every time a fibre is shredded, opened and respun, it gets shorter and weaker, which is why mechanically recycled cotton is usually blended with 70 – 80% virgin fibre just to hold a yarn together. Chemical recycling promises something better: break the polymer down to its monomers, or dissolve it back to a pure pulp, and you can in theory rebuild a fibre with virgin-equivalent properties, indefinitely.

That promise is why so much investment has piled into the space. It’s also why, in practice, the chemistry is proving so much harder to scale than the pitch decks suggest.

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