Ecotextile News https://www.ecotextile.com/ Sat, 23 Sep 2017 09:22:25 GMT FeedCreator 1.8.0-dev (info@mypapit.net) Study scales apparel wastage mountain http://www.ecotextile.com/2017092122977/dyes-chemicals-news/study-scales-apparel-wastage-mountain.html AMSTERDAM – A Dutch study has examined the culture of mass apparel production, the subsequent wastage and potential improvements as part of a paper published by the Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences.

Researchers found that on average, consumers in the Netherlands purchased 46 clothing items per year, figures that were lower than that of other participating nations. They also discovered that on average, 40 items are disposed of per annum: 24 of these garments are thrown away in general household waste; five are unsuitable for reuse but can can be recycled; two are re-wearable but not by international second-hand standards; nine of the items are suitable for resale on the international second-hand market.

These figures meant that the average number of items in a person’s wardrobe was 173, with 123 deemed to be ‘in active use’ with 50 items not being worn for at least one year. ‘Measuring the Dutch clothing mountain: Data for sustainability-oriented studies and actions in the apparel sector’ was authored by a collaboration hosted by Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences and involved a consortium of partners in­cluding NGO’s, companies, charitable or­ganizations and knowledge institutions.

The study states: “One of the aims of this project is to highlight the importance of growing clothing volumes,” and goes on to explain that other similar research papers have concentrated on “promoting the use of organic or recycled materials. Although this line of action is certainly valuable and needed, it should be com­plemented with solutions to maintain or reduce the quantity of clothing made and discarded.”

The research focussed on data gathered from the UK, Denmark, Germany and France, along with domestic information [from the Netherlands] in order to assess and recommend resolutions to the current situation which sees an ever-increasing amount of wastage in the garment sector.

Further examining the second-hand apparel sector and the destiny of items of clothing that are returned by consumers are set out as the next steps in progressing this study.

The paper is available to download at: http://bit.ly/2w8PATy

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Thu, 21 Sep 2017 15:37:38 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017092122977/dyes-chemicals-news/study-scales-apparel-wastage-mountain.html
Bangladesh suffers another garment factory fire http://www.ecotextile.com/2017092022976/social-compliance-csr-news/bangladesh-suffers-another-garment-factory-fire.html DHAKA – At least six workers have been killed in the latest Bangladesh garment factory fire with early reports saying other workers are still missing, so the death toll may rise. This comes a matter of weeks after the decision was made to renew the Bangladesh Accord, the agreement put in place post-Rana Plaza to avoid exactly this kind of incident.

So far just 30 companies out of 200 have re-signed to the Accord’s latest commitments which see the initiative extended until 2021.

The fire, which has now been extinguished by emergency services, is the latest in a long line of similar fatal incidents which have led to calls for a new system of governance to be brought in to prevent such tragedies. Mustafizur Rahman, deputy district police chief, told reporters at the scene: "So far we have found six bodies. The search is ongoing."

This latest incident, which has cost a minimum of six workers their lives, will do nothing to allay fears about safety in garment manufacturing and the effectiveness of initiatives such as the Bangladesh Accord, which has been under increasing scrutiny of late.

Remediation has been a topic of paramount importance in Accord negotiations as it is unclear who, if anyone, will be held accountable for the costs of making factories safe for workers. The Accord 2.0 is due to commence when the current Accord expires in May 2018. The updated agreement has so far been signed by companies including Primark, H&M and Inditex (Zara) but more than 75 per cent of the original signatories are yet to sign up.

The Accord and Alliance are only believed to cover around half of Bangladesh’s garment workers. Some factories who do not fall under the jurisdiction of the Accord have announced their own initiatives. In an exclusive interview with Ecotextile News, Sarah Labowitz, co-founder of the NYU Stern Centre for Business and Human Rights, described such efforts as “too little, too late.”

For a fuller picture of the current situation in Bangladesh a feature will be available in the forthcoming issue of Ecotextile News. For this and many more similar articles subscribe here.

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Wed, 20 Sep 2017 15:31:45 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017092022976/social-compliance-csr-news/bangladesh-suffers-another-garment-factory-fire.html
Scientists prise more textile potential from silkworms http://www.ecotextile.com/2017092022975/materials-production-news/scientists-prise-more-textile-potential-from-silkworms.html SHEFFIELD – Researchers from the University of Sheffield have shown that silkworms and spiders spin silk by pulling, rather than pushing it out of their bodies and say this technique could be adapted by the textile sector to manufacture a range of synthetic fibres in a more sustainable way as the process does not require high temperatures and has only water as a by-product.

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Wed, 20 Sep 2017 11:37:35 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017092022975/materials-production-news/scientists-prise-more-textile-potential-from-silkworms.html
Planet Textiles set for Vancouver http://www.ecotextile.com/2017092022974/shows-events/planet-textiles-set-for-vancouver.html Leading apparel brands, retailers and textile supply chain stakeholders who are moving the needle on environmental issues will assemble in Vancouver, Canada on 22nd May 2018 at the 9th annual Planet Textiles summit on sustainability.

Co-organised by MCL News & Media – the publisher of Ecotextile News – and the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), Planet Textiles will be held at the Sheraton Vancouver Wall Centre Hotel and takes place the day prior to the two-day SAC Annual Members Meeting on the 23 – 24 May 2018.

The objectives of Planet Textiles in Vancouver will be to share with delegates the latest new environmental initiatives and business models in the textile supply chain; and to show how new technologies, financial innovations can help to increase collaboration, transparency and measurement throughout the industry.

As such, the organising committee invites interested speakers, sponsors and exhibitors to submit their ideas here about how they can contribute to Planet Textiles 2018 for review by 15th October.

Vancouver is currently working to become ‘the greenest city in the world’ through its ‘Greenest City Action Plan’ working the council, residents, businesses, and other organisations to achieve a set of measurable and attainable environmental targets.  

“Vancouver has set a leading international example in its commitment to sustainability and addressing climate change,” SAC CEO Jason Kibbey said. “We’re looking forward to gathering there as global leaders in the apparel sector continue working toward the SAC’s own sustainability goal of achieving industry transparency by 2020.”

The Vancouver event follows on from this year’s edition held in Bangalore, India where around 350 delegates debated the issue of water use, conservation and pollution throughout the textile supply chain.

Web: www.planet-textiles.com

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Wed, 20 Sep 2017 10:42:09 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017092022974/shows-events/planet-textiles-set-for-vancouver.html
Recycled fabrics have unique cotton/viscose feel http://www.ecotextile.com/2017092022973/materials-production-news/recycled-fabrics-have-unique-cotton-viscose-feel.html HELSINKI – Researchers in Finland have developed their first range of knitted textiles made from chemically recycled cotton yarns that are said to have a water footprint that is around 2 per cent of virgin cotton and 10 per cent of viscose – and will enable new industrial applications of previously unusable textile waste.

The researchers also say that fabrics made from this new process have unique properties that are ‘halfway between cotton and viscose fibres.’

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Wed, 20 Sep 2017 10:42:49 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017092022973/materials-production-news/recycled-fabrics-have-unique-cotton-viscose-feel.html
Fashion brands to tackle climate change http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091922972/fashion-retail-news/fashion-brands-to-tackle-climate-change.html NEW YORK – Fashion brands Gap Inc., Nike, Levi Strauss, VF Corporation, Guess, and Eileen Fisher have joined the Science-based Targets Initiative (SBTI), which aims to help companies cut their greenhouse gas emissions in a bid to limit global warming to below the critical 2°C threshold. The companies join other clothing brands such as H&M, ASICS, Kering, Puma, Walmart, Inditex, Woolworths Holdings Ltd, Marks and Spencer, and One Jeanswear Company. To join the initiative, firms must publicly commit to a detailed emissions reduction goal.

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Wed, 20 Sep 2017 10:40:18 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091922972/fashion-retail-news/fashion-brands-to-tackle-climate-change.html
Kering recognised by sustainability index http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091922971/fashion-retail-news/kering-recognised-by-sustainability-index.html PARIS – French fashion conglomerate, Kering has been recognised for the third time by the Dow Jones Sustainability Index (DJSI), as it scored the highest in its environmental and social performance in the ‘Textiles, Apparel and Luxury Goods’ sector. The DJSI says it assessed 23 criteria in three categories. The company says it tires to embed sustainability across its entire supply chain and have begun to implement its ‘2025 sustainability strategy’.

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Tue, 19 Sep 2017 14:56:17 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091922971/fashion-retail-news/kering-recognised-by-sustainability-index.html
Greenpeace calls for a fashion ‘slowdown’ http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091922970/fashion-retail-news/greenpeace-calls-for-a-fashion-slowdown.html MILAN – In a switch of emphasis away from the debate on fluorocarbon chemistry used for water repellency in textiles, but still with a clear focus on the global textile and clothing sectors, Greenpeace has said the industry should now move towards a ‘slow’ fashion business model as a solution to the environmental problems of the industry – and society as a whole.

At the opening of Milan Fashion Week, the international pressure group puts forward a ‘12 step plan’ for the industry to reach this goal in a new report, which calls for retailers and brands to improve the durability and quality of clothing, move away from fast fashion, source more natural raw materials rather than synthetics – while paying greater attention to the issue of microplastics in both virgin and recycled materials. The report also argues for legislative changes to introduce such as Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) and tax breaks and financial incentives for small, fairtrade and ‘sustainable’ businesses.

The report, ‘Fashion at the Crossroads’ published by Greenpeace Germany, also criticises some existing environmental textile industry initiatives that call for ‘circularity’ claiming this will be impossible to achieve and could stall progress and actually help to perpetuate the fast fashion business model.

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Wed, 20 Sep 2017 10:41:58 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091922970/fashion-retail-news/greenpeace-calls-for-a-fashion-slowdown.html
Research illuminates fluorescent cotton potential http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091522969/materials-production-news/research-illuminates-fluorescent-cotton-potential.html REHOVOT – Scientists at the Weizmann Institute, Israel, have today published a report which indicates cotton textile fibres may be produced with fluorescent properties which do not fade during domestic washing. The study established a method of linking molecules with desired functions, such as fluorescent or magnetic compounds, to sugar molecules that cotton plants absorb through their vasculature and use to build their cells.

This could also be interesting from an environmental perspective since some fluorescent brightening agents are not stable and can sometimes result in restricted substance list (RSL) failures. 

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Wed, 20 Sep 2017 10:40:42 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091522969/materials-production-news/research-illuminates-fluorescent-cotton-potential.html
US cotton steps up on sustainability http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091422968/materials-production-news/us-cotton-steps-up-on-sustainability.html CARY, NC – Cotton Incorporated has signalled its strong intent to focus more resources on environmental issues in the cotton sector with the appointment of Jesse Daystar as its first Chief Sustainability Officer. Daystar’s move, from his role as Assistant Director at the Centre for Sustainability and Commerce at Duke University, coincides with the release of a new strategy for the US cotton industry launched by the National Cotton Council’s (NCC) sustainability task force. 

 The NCC outlined a range of new goals on environmental stewardship that will be implemented by 2025 and which further its commitment to a more sustainable and transparent future for the US cotton sector.

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Thu, 14 Sep 2017 15:36:34 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091422968/materials-production-news/us-cotton-steps-up-on-sustainability.html
Project aims to limit synthetic textile microfibres http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091422967/materials-production-news/project-aims-to-limit-synthetic-textile-microfibres.html BONN – A new €1.7 million project sponsored by German Federal Ministry for Education and Research to reduce the environmental impact of microplastics from synthetic textiles is being backed by leading outdoor clothing brands such as Vaude, Adidas, Polartec as well as detergent suppliers, WWF Germany, industry associations and academia.

The new project, which runs over 3 years aims to develop new technologies that limit fibre ‘shedding’ from fabrics such as polyester fleece during household laundering. Biodegradable alternative fibres to polyester and other synthetics will also be examined.

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Thu, 14 Sep 2017 14:12:52 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091422967/materials-production-news/project-aims-to-limit-synthetic-textile-microfibres.html
Oritain diversifies into ‘cotton transparency’ http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091422965/materials-production-news/oritain-diversifies-into-cotton-transparency.html DUNEDIN – Supply chain specialist Oritain Global plans to implement its ‘fingerprint’ identification technology, currently used in the food industry, to improve transparency and traceability in the cotton industry.

The company, which analyses and then compares crops with the composition of the soils in which they are grown, has announced new partnerships with American supima cotton grower, J.G. Boswell, Australian upland cotton producer, Auscott and home textiles firm, Welspun India.

The move comes as the provenence of Indian organic cotton is once again being brought into question.

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Wed, 20 Sep 2017 14:18:40 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091422965/materials-production-news/oritain-diversifies-into-cotton-transparency.html
Otto Group tops CmiA cotton sales http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091422964/labels-legislation-news/otto-group-top-cmia-cotton-sales.html HAMBURG – Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) has revealed that Bonprix, part of the German Otto Group was the biggest buyer of its cotton in 2016 with multi-channel retailer Tschibo and then the Rewe Group following closely behind via its EWE, Penny and Toom Baumarkt outlets. Other notable buyers of CmiA’s cotton included Asos, Bestseller and Engelbert Strauss.

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Wed, 20 Sep 2017 10:43:02 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091422964/labels-legislation-news/otto-group-top-cmia-cotton-sales.html
H&M Foundation launches third global change award http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091322963/shows-events/h-m-foundation-launches-third-global-change-award.html STOCKHOLM – The H&M foundation today opened applications for the third round of its global change award. Five winners will share a €1 million grant and receive entry to a year-long innovation accelerator programme. The prize, run by the non-profit foundation, is aimed at facilitating textile innovations that will form part of a circular economy in the apparel sector.

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Wed, 13 Sep 2017 15:37:06 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091322963/shows-events/h-m-foundation-launches-third-global-change-award.html
Textile factories rectify safety measures http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091322962/social-compliance-csr-news/textile-factories-rectify-safety-measures.html DHAKA – The Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety (AFBWS) has announced that 46 more textile factories completed their Corrective Action Plans (CAPs) in the month of August. The additional completions bring the total number of CAPs certified by AFBWS to 166.

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Wed, 13 Sep 2017 09:29:29 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091322962/social-compliance-csr-news/textile-factories-rectify-safety-measures.html
Fashion Positive launches circular fashion tool http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091222961/fashion-retail-news/fashion-positive-launches-circular-fashion-tool.html OAKLAND – Non-profit circular economy initiative, Fashion Positive has launched a collection of online resources designed to encourage the textile supply chain to act more responsibly, in the interests of the circular fashion economy, the environment and social compliance. The project’s organisers say it will also help designers, brands and suppliers learn how to attain environmental certifications and get funding for Cradle to Cradle certifications.

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Wed, 13 Sep 2017 15:45:42 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091222961/fashion-retail-news/fashion-positive-launches-circular-fashion-tool.html
Lenzing opens Hong Kong Innovation Centre http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091222960/materials-production-news/lenzing-opens-hong-kong-innovation-centre.html HONG KONG -  Lenzing Group has opened its new Application Innovation Centre (AIC) in Hong Kong. The company says it will develop new applications and test fibres at the facility. The lyocell fibre, Refibra and the viscose fibre, EcoVero have both been tested at the centre already, Lenzing says.

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Tue, 12 Sep 2017 13:40:30 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091222960/materials-production-news/lenzing-opens-hong-kong-innovation-centre.html
UN slaps North Korea with textiles export ban http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091222959/labels-legislation-news/un-slaps-north-korea-with-textiles-export-ban.html NEW YORK – The United Nations (UN) has voted unanimously in favour of tougher new sanctions on North Korea, which include a total ban on the export of textiles. Textiles are Pyongyang’s second-largest export, and the UN says the ban will cost the country more than US$700 million per year. North Korea’s largest trading partner, China also agreed to the sanctions that also included limits of the imports of crude oil and a ban on new visas for North Korean workers abroad.

Ecotextile News recently reported the claim that clothing imported by major apparel retailers and brands with the ‘Made in China’ label could actually have been made by extremely low-paid garment workers in North Korea, which are then exported back across the border for sale on the international market.

The news of further unauthorised sub-contracting of garment production in North Korea using exported Chinese-made textiles will concern many retailers and brands sourcing from the region.

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Wed, 13 Sep 2017 11:04:25 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091222959/labels-legislation-news/un-slaps-north-korea-with-textiles-export-ban.html
Berlin Ethical Fashion show swaps venue http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091122958/shows-events/berlin-ethical-fashion-show-swaps-venue.html BERLIN – Messe Frankfurt has announced the next version of the Greenshowroom and Ethical Fashion Show Berlin will take place at Kraftwerk Berlin, a former power station that supplied electricity to east Germany during the cold war. The textile event organiser also announced that it will launch two new discussion forums on innovation and sustainability: #Fashiontech and FashionSustain, which are scheduled to be held during the show. At the shows, fashion buyers will be able to view contemporary fashion and casual wear on the ground and first floor, with a focus on environmental aspect of clothing production.

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Mon, 11 Sep 2017 15:23:23 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091122958/shows-events/berlin-ethical-fashion-show-swaps-venue.html
Pakistani textile factories still unsafe http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091122957/social-compliance-csr-news/pakistani-textile-factories-still-unsafe.html PAKISTAN –  Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC) says Pakistani textile factories are still unsafe, five years after a fire at the Ali Enterprises factory in the country, which killed 250 workers. CCC blames the absence of transparent safety inspections and how corporate auditing systems fail to identify potential safety risks. The controversy comes as, just weeks before the fire, the factory in question was awarded a SAI8000 certification after an audit carried out by a private auditing firm, which the CCC claims how ineffective mainstream auditing is in documenting risks.

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Wed, 13 Sep 2017 11:06:08 GMT http://www.ecotextile.com/2017091122957/social-compliance-csr-news/pakistani-textile-factories-still-unsafe.html