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LONDON – Luxury brands such as Gucci, Prada and Chanel sit alongside low-cost apparel retailers, such as Asda, Lidl and online brands Boohoo and Missguided when it comes to transparency in their viscose textile supply chains, according to a new update from the UK-based Changing Markets Foundation.

The update follows a year on from its original report on viscose pollution, which implicated fashion brands such as H&M, Marks & Spencer, Levi Strauss and Zara in viscose pollution incidents in China, India and Indonesia.

No actual sampling of wastewater from viscose mills was done in 2018, although seven apparel brands have now signed up to a new roadmap for change, while viscose suppliers Lenzing and Aditya Birla have agreed to ensure all their sites meet EU Ecolabel requirements by 2022.

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Materials & Production News

  • Wednesday, 17 October 2018

    Podcast: Biochemist aims to change how polyester is recycled

    WAKEFIELD – In our latest podcast released today, Mike Schragger talks to Akshay Sethi about the science behind polyester recycling, the rapid development of his company Moral Fiber, the steep learning curve he has faced when starting a company…
  • Tuesday, 16 October 2018

    Predicted polyester growth contradicts fashion rhetoric

    ALBANY – With major industry players announcing ‘recycled’ and ‘ocean plastic’ collections with an ever-growing frequency, the forecasting of a US research firm – which predicts a 4.1 per cent increase in the virgin polyester fibre market by 2025 –…
  • Monday, 15 October 2018

    Oritain reveals ‘100 per cent traceable cotton’ collaboration

    MILAN – Oritain has, alongside Albini Group and Supima, announced a strategic partnership seeking to offer the first 100 per cent scientifically traceable Supima organic cotton to the mainstream fashion market. The co-operative effort, brought…
  • Thursday, 11 October 2018

    World’s first free digital map of apparel factories

    NEW YORK CITY – The beta version of an ambitious new online tool aims to help consumers find out exactly where their clothes are made – by eventually identifying every apparel facility worldwide. The latest beta version of the Open Apparel Registry…
  • Thursday, 11 October 2018

    SpongeBob goes sustainable in Nickelodeon apparel deal

    NEW YORK – Viacom Nickelodeon Consumer Products (VNCP), the merchandising branch of TV brand Nickelodeon, has signed a licensing agreement with Trashcode to produce apparel and accessories made from sustainable materials across Europe, the Middle…
  • Wednesday, 10 October 2018

    Lenzing collection gives Kingpins the Midnight Blues

    NEW YORK – Lenzing’s Tencel fibre with Refibra technology will form the basis of the Austrian firm’s Midnight Blues denim capsule collection at this month’s Kingpins show in Amsterdam. The process to realise the collection – which debuted at New…
  • Klopman launches circular economy degree award
    Wednesday, 10 October 2018

    Klopman launches circular economy degree award

    FROSINONE – Workwear fabrics producer Klopman has launched a new degree award for the best thesis on environmental sustainability and/or the circular economy in the textile sector, within the engineering and chemistry departments of Italian…
  • Wednesday, 10 October 2018

    Chemical textile recycling unveiled in Taiwan

    TAIPEI – Taiwan textile supplier Far Eastern New Century (FENC) will unveil a raft of new environmental advances at next week’s TITAS exhibition, including an ‘all-in-one’ chemical recycling solution for mixed-stream post-consumer polyester textiles…
  • Thursday, 04 October 2018

    Eastman debuts cellulosic fibre for womenswear

    KINGSPORT – US chemical and fibre producer Eastman has launched Naia, a new cellulosic fibre made from wood pulp derived only from sustainably managed forestry which the company is looking to promote in the womenswear market.
  • Wednesday, 03 October 2018

    Podcast: Can the apparel sector mitigate climate change?

    WAKEFIELD – Today we launch the second in a series of our new podcasts in partnership with Michael Schragger, Founder of the Sustainable Fashion Academy (SFA), which this week talks about the impact the textile and apparel industry has on climate…
  • Thursday, 27 September 2018

    Lenzing to mothball US project due to tariff concerns

    AUSTRIA – Manmade cellulosic fibre supplier Lenzing has postponed the expansion of its lyocell facility in Mobile, Alabama due to the likelihood of new trade tariffs together with higher construction costs which it says have increased the ‘risk…
  • Friday, 21 September 2018

    Pakistan added to Primark cotton programme

    DUBLIN – Following a successful first year of retailing apparel which incorporates cotton from the company’s Sustainable Cotton Programme, Primark has announced that it will expand the initiative to encompass suppliers in Pakistan – one of its…
  • Thursday, 20 September 2018

    Ternua debuts PFC-free recycled plastic travel range

    MONDRAGÓN – European Outdoor Group (EOG) member brand Ternua has launched a range of PFC-free backpacks and travel accessories made using recycled materials for its upcoming spring-summer 2019 collection.
  • Wednesday, 12 September 2018

    Report seeks industry SDG implementation

    AMSTELVEEN – Global auditing firm KPMG has teamed up with Textile Exchange (TE) to publish its Threading the Needle report which details how the apparel industry can integrate the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) to improve its business…
  • Wednesday, 12 September 2018

    UK Institute calls for action on textile pollution

    LONDON – The Institution of Mechanical Engineers an influential UK-based association, which has over 120,000 members in 140 countries, has called on the textile sector to clean up its act through today’s release of a new 8-page briefing that calls…
  • Wednesday, 12 September 2018

    Partnership aims to tackle synthetic textile pollution

    HAYWARD – After the successful presentation of its ‘CiCLO’ technology to Planet Textiles delegates in Vancouver, back in May, the Intrinsic Textiles Group has now signed a joint venture agreement with the yarn division of US-based Parkdale Mills to…
  • Tuesday, 11 September 2018

    Non-surgical mulesing alternative for Australasia

    VICTORIA – The commercialisation of a non-surgical cryogenic breeching procedure, in addition to New Zealand’s imminent ban on the practice, could see Australasia’s two largest nations move away from the much-maligned practice of mulesing. The…
  • Tuesday, 11 September 2018

    Microfibre solution offered by in-house testing?

    GENEVA – In response to both the growing fears and understanding on the topic of textile-derived microfibres, a Swiss-based testing laboratory has developed a new in-house testing method for apparel manufacturers to implement directly. This,…
  • Friday, 07 September 2018

    Sustainability study explores mulberry silk credentials

    COMO – While the production of silk has almost been consigned to history in Europe, Como in Italy continues to thrive as a hub serving the world’s luxury fashion retailers with fibres for products such as scarves, ties, blouses and dresses. A new…
  • Wednesday, 05 September 2018

    Research explores Northern Australian cotton potential

    CANBERRA – To better inform the Australian government, federal government agency The Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation (CSIRO) has conducted an investigation into the opportunities for water resource development in key…
  • Tuesday, 04 September 2018

    Recycled renaissance for Hong Kong textile sector?

    HONG KONG – A new spinning mill in Hong Kong’s former garment-producing hub will begin operations later this year, producing recycled yarn derived from the region’s textile waste. The landmark mill opening, which will be the first in Hong Kong for…
  • Tuesday, 04 September 2018

    Lenzing steps ahead with Hong Kong innovation hub

    HONG KONG – More than 600 visitors from buying offices and apparel brands have already been through Lenzing’s new application innovation centre here in Hong Kong, where prototype knitted jacquard fabrics made with the new Tencel Luxe – a filament…
  • Monday, 03 September 2018

    Nike latest to join Green Supply Chain Map

    BEIJING – Global sportswear brand Nike has become the latest company to join the Green Supply Chain Map; a move which means the firm will disclose the environmental information of all their suppliers located in China. The online tool, launched in…
  • Tuesday, 28 August 2018

    Updated GRI standard incorporates water impacts

    STOCKHOLM – An updated GRI (Global Reporting Initiative) standard on water stress – a pressing issue for many firms in the garment sector, particularly manufacturing and finishing – has now been introduced. The organisation asserts that companies…
  • Tuesday, 28 August 2018

    Australasian duo collaborate on textile recycling

    SYDNEY – Australian fashion technology firm BlockTexx has revealed that it will be working closely with New Zealand-based textile research company The Formary as part of a collaborative effort to develop new strategies and workflow models for the…
  • Thursday, 23 August 2018

    Glyphosate and cotton standards. Risk or reward?

    LONDON – Glyphosate, the main ingredient in RoundUp herbicide widely used in cotton production – including being approved for use in several environmental standards – is once again under scrutiny after a ruling that backed a groundskeeper who said…
  • Wednesday, 22 August 2018

    CmiA cites surge in African cotton demand

    HAMBURG – Cotton made in Africa (CmiA), which now certifies around 40 per cent of the cotton produced by smallholder farmers in sub-Saharan Africa, has claimed a huge rise in demand for African cotton within the textile industry. According to the…
  • Friday, 17 August 2018

    US recycling hits the buffers, latest figures show

    WASHINGTON – While launches of ‘recycled’ collections within the textile sector seem to be occurring at an ever-increasing frequency, the latest figures regarding material recycling in the United States – which point to a decrease in the amount of…
  • Friday, 17 August 2018

    Spinnova seeks acceleration after investment boost

    HELSINKI – Finnish fibre innovator Spinnova has received a welcome injection of capital; a boost which the firm hopes will ensure the next phase of its progression is secure. The company aims to develop what it describes as ‘the world’s most…
  • Wednesday, 15 August 2018

    Canadian firm pioneers aramid PPE recycling

    VANCOUVER – Following ‘extensive R&D efforts’ at its recycling centre, a Canadian firm claims to have developed a proprietary technique for the post-consumer recycling of aramid fabrics; a development which could offer the PPE (personal protective…
  • Tuesday, 14 August 2018

    The view from…DuPont Industrial Biosciences

    WILMINGTON – To discuss the company’s latest innovations, its stance on certifications and what comes next for one of the industry’s largest organisations, David Styles caught up with global product manager at DuPont Industrial Biosciences’, Rene…
  • Friday, 10 August 2018

    Apparel Impact Institute enters new era

    SAN FRANCISCO – The Apparel Impact Institute (AII), which will soon celebrate its first year in operation, has revealed that its first president will be Lewis Perkins, who previously worked in the same role at the Cradle to Cradle Products…
  • Thursday, 09 August 2018

    New plant boosts Sri Lankan recycled polyester

    COLOMBO – A new facility in the district of Horana has opened its doors prior to embarking on the manufacturing of polyester yarn from post-consumer PET flakes at a scale never before seen in Sri Lanka.
  • Wednesday, 08 August 2018

    Cotton: A sector under stress?

    WASHINGTON - Earlier this month, a seemingly ordinary press release from the International Cotton Advisory Committee caught the eagle eye of Ecotextile News, which told of how cotton farmers were unable to capitalise on the strong demand for cotton…
  • Friday, 03 August 2018

    Wecycled initiative awarded Natural Fibre prize

    VELEN – German textile manufacturer Velener Textil GmbH has won the Discover Natural Fibres Initiative’s (DNFI) Innovation in Natural Fibres Award for its Wecycled system which reclaims the 30 per cent of cotton yarn that remains unused in textile…
  • Thursday, 02 August 2018

    Cotton demand at record high, environmental stress impacts prospects

    WASHINGTON – Despite a strong demand for cotton in Asia with consumption projected to reach an all-time high of 27.5 million tonnes in 2018/19, less-than-ideal environmental conditions and subsequent lack of available water, means that cotton…
  • Tuesday, 31 July 2018

    Delta collaboration repurposes retired uniforms

    ATLANTA - Delta Air Lines, the second largest passenger carrier airline in the USA, which globally employs more than 800,000 people, has donated more than 350,000 pounds of clothing to be upcycled and repurposed. In a new initiative, the airline has…
  • Tuesday, 31 July 2018

    China viscose sector launches sustainability roadmap

    BEIJING – Ten major Chinese viscose producers which together make up an estimated 50 per cent of the world’s supply have released a new joint 3-year roadmap for the sustainable development of the viscose manufacturing industry in China. In…
  • Monday, 30 July 2018

    West Africa hub could boost organic cotton

    The idea of a cotton sourcing hub in West Africa has recently resurfaced, but this time it’s being tied to a goal to which could massively increase the production of organic cotton. Simon Ferrigno catches up with Tobias Meier of Swiss-based…
  • Friday, 27 July 2018

    New study asks, does garment use matter?

    OSLO – A new study has been published to examine whether there is evidence to suggest the use of textiles changes systematically between different fibre types. The research also highlights the shortcomings of LCA lifecycle assessments given that,…
  • Tuesday, 24 July 2018

    Spinnova to scale up with Fashion for Good

    AMSTERDAM – Fashion for Good has unveiled Finnish cellulosic fibre innovator Spinnova as the latest addition to its Scaling Programme. Spinnova has been selected by the Amsterdam-based fashion hub as a result of developing its disruptive cellulose…
  • Thursday, 19 July 2018

    Eurojersey extends WWF partnership, launches microfibre project

    MILAN – Italian warp knitted fabric supplier Eurojersey has signed a new three-year extension of its existing partnership with WWF Italia aimed at the conservation of water as a planetary resource. The new partnership will take the form of multiple…
  • Wednesday, 18 July 2018

    New study gets the measure of microfibre shedding

    MÖLNDAL – A new research article led by a Swerea IVF scientist has proposed a standardised test method for measuring textile-derived microfibres shed during the everyday washing of garments. One of the primary motivations for this research is said…
  • Monday, 16 July 2018

    Worn Again accelerates polymer recycling technology

    LONDON – Research institute Worn Again Technologies has confirmed that it has successfully reached its investment target of £5 million to facilitate the acceleration of its breakthrough polymer recycling technology. In the face of the growing…
  • Thursday, 12 July 2018

    First viscose filament yarn audit finds ENKA ‘low risk’

    OBERNBURG – German firm ENKA has become the first viscose filament yarn producer to complete an independent verification audit in association with Rainforest Alliance and Canopy. The results of this first-of-its-kind audit categorised the company as…
  • Wednesday, 11 July 2018

    Man-made cellulosic fibres added to ZDHC roadmap

    AMSTERDAM – ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) has confirmed that, as part of the wider implementation of raw material production into its Roadmap to Zero Programme, man-made cellulosic fibres will now form part of its apparel value chain…
  • Friday, 06 July 2018

    Are textile microfibres more problematic than microbeads?

    BRUSSELS – A new study has found textile-derived microfibres to be as harmful, if not more so, to certain types of aquatic crustaceans than microbeads which have already been banned from use in many nations. In particular, the study found that…
  • Dutch sustainability initiative reports growth
    Wednesday, 04 July 2018

    Dutch sustainability initiative reports growth

    NETHERLANDS – The Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textiles (AGT) has reported a sharp rise in the number of production sites taking part in the initiative since it was first launched back in 2016. Latest figures show that today, on the…
  • Fibres from chicken feathers back up the pecking order
    Tuesday, 03 July 2018

    Fibres from chicken feathers back up the pecking order

    NEBRASKA – An ongoing research project – first highlighted by Ecotextile News as far back as our first print issue in 2007 – has received a new US$211,885 grant as part of a two-year project to develop protein textile fibres made from waste poultry…
  • Tuesday, 03 July 2018

    Klopman invests in sustainability

    Frosinone - Workwear fabrics producer, Klopman, has started construction work on a cogeneration plant at its production facility, which is located in Frosinone, Italy. The company says the objective is to replace the existing thermoelectric plant to…
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