A new take on lyocell with a high variation of cut lengths and a novel delustering technique is giving yarns a matte, cotton-like surface – and, crucially, a very different behaviour in indigo dyeing and washdown that standard lyocell has struggled to deliver
YORK – In the latest edition of Ecotextile Talks, we speak to Lenzing about the rollout of its Tencel Lyocell HV100 fibre, already launched with 17 textile mill partners across five countries. Lenzing hopes the innovation will reshape how brands think about “authentic” denim and woven fabrics, particularly because HV100 can now be used confidently in the warp (front) face of denim – where the fabric’s character is defined.
For Lenzing, HV100 is a strategic extension of the Tencel platform into applications where standard lyocell has struggled aesthetically. “For many years, Tencel Lyocell has been loved for its smooth and even appearance,” says Julia Ulrich, head of product management textiles. “But for some applications it was a bit too uniform, a little too fluid, sometimes even a touch too shiny.”
The core innovation is technical: HV100 uses a high variation of cut lengths combined with a different delustering approach to engineer more texture and surface irregularity into the yarn. According to Johnny Truong, Lenzing’s global technical customer service expert and the fibre’s originator, this changes how the yarn takes up indigo and how it washes down. “If you compare the finished fabric, you will not see this as a normal Lyocell fabric anymore,” he notes.
Using the same closed-loop process as standard Tencel Lyocell, HV100 is also said to offer environmental benefits around carbon emissions and water consumption than generic lyocell.
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